Remains of Cranganore Fort

The remains of Cranganore Fort aka Kottappuram Fort in Methala village, Kodungallur, Kerala is a reflection of a rich Muziris heritage. Built by the Portuguese in 1523 on a prime location on the mouth of Periyar river as it stretches to join the Arabian Sea. In 1663, the fort was captured and destroyed by the Dutch and later used the space to guard their trade ships. One could hardly call it a fort today as almost all the walls were found demolished and today the remains are undergoing excavation under the Muziris Heritage project.

 Excavated walls of the Cranganore Fort

 A panoramic view of the excavation site at the Cranganore Fort.

 A lengthy procedure to brush out the Muziris history looks worthy enough. These seemingly demolished walls takes us back to our glory days of spice trade or was it really that glorious? Numerous skeletons were also unearthed along with the artifacts said the site manager Balan.

" Muziris has the distinction of having yielded a complete human skeleton for the first time in India, from the Kottappuram fort area. Other items excavated here include Chinese coins, Chinese inscriptions, and pieces of decorated porcelain, West Arabian pottery pieces, iron nails, bullets, stone beads, 17th century Dutch coins and tiles. These will eventually go into the museums to be set up."

source : https://www.keralatourism.org/muziris/history.php

 Terracotta shards from the demolished Cranganore Fort.

 A brief history of ruins at the Cranganore Fort.

 Lot of Giant sized trees have flourished in the locality. Some of the locals referred the Fort as some haunted place until the excavation project cleared the tall grasses and thorny bushes. 

The root of a Giant Sized "Ezhilam Pala " ( Alstonia Scholaris ) a holy tree often planted in a temple premises in Kerala unearthed from the site. The tree has got lot of significance in folk stories of Kerala and is often related to demoness "Yakshi" but some findings relate "Yakshi" to goddess associated with the fertility of the earth.

For more info :
http://keezhkulamelangom.angelfire.com/yakshi.htm

http://maddy06.blogspot.in/2010/02/bewitching-yakshi.html

A mild notice to trespassers  

Later this pillar was erected by the Archaeology department of Travancore based on a purchase made by the then Travancore king Ramavarma Dharmaraja from the Dutch on 31st July 1789. The agreement of purchase was executed in 1909 and the ruins are preserved since the erection of the pillar.

Many of the buildings and houses near the Cranganore Fort area had European architecture and some of them still remain today.

European architecture evident on a building in the nearby market. The modern day Kottappuram market and the adjoining town developed around the Cranganore Fort. 
(Kotta means Fort in Malayalam and thus the name Kottappuram referring to an elevated land comprising a Fort).

A villager cruising with his country boat near the Kottappuram bridge. The Fort being strategically located at the mouth of River Periyar in Muziris acting as a gate way of foreign trade en-route Arabian Sea... the river that had hosted plenty of battles for spices during the Muziris era. 




How to get there : Nearly a kilometer away from Kottappuram market via the Puthenvelikkara - Thuruthippuram road. Coming from the Kottappuram market area, take a strict right turn before crossing the Kottappuram bridge and there your are dealing with some history.


https://maps.google.co.in/maps?hl=en&newwindow=1&q=cranganore%20fort&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wl

Remembering John . H . Aspinwall

The Aspinwall House being the heart of the ongoing Kochi Muziris Biennale (KMB) leaves no confusion for an enthusiast seeking the significance of Art Biennale in Kochi. 

Better explained here : http://kochimuzirisbiennale.org/concept/

For centuries, traders from Arabia, Egypt, Europe and China kept wandering around the coasts of Kerala searching for spices. Some of them made good business and left but some decided to stay and exploit further. John .H. Aspinwall was one such trades man who later carried forward the maritime tradition of Kochi and founded The Aspinwall and Company LTD in 1867. The company then became the center for spice trade from Kerala in the later half of 19th century following the legacy of spice trade that Muziris opened for the world.

A view from Aspinwall house ideally located near the port.

"The strange new music of the crying songs of the people we left behind mixing as your boat touches stone here as my new bones touch your bones."   
A text based installation by British artist Robert Montgomery as part of the Art Biennale facing the ferries in Aspinwall House.

Artist Subodh Gupta's installation during the process of creation in Aspinwall House.

 Artist Valsan Koorma Kolleri  working on his creation in Aspinwall House. Picture taken before the official day of starting of Biennale.

Art students and other enthusiasts volunteering to assist the artists a week prior to the start of the Biennale, painting history on the walls of Aspinwall House.

Visitors of Kochi Muziris Biennale enjoying a view of Kochi from the Aspinwall House's river facing building.

Most visitors experience a rediscovery of their concepts regarding contemporary  art and craft works. In picture a visitor walks through the dark corners on Aspinwall House looking out for the next creation to be seen in a building resembling a never ending canvas.

The poetic installation art lit up in broadway style light welcomes the seafarers and mariners back to land... back to Kochi.

Remains of Vypeekotta Seminary

The remains of Vypeekotta seminary are being preserved from the year 1935 since the discovery of many stone inscriptions from a nearby Church compound  It is believed that the seminary to teach  ceremonies to the priests of Malabar was established by Portuguese along with the Holy cross church nearby which was later renovated. The Holy cross church is still functional. Some of these inscriptions which were found is fixed in the church compound.

The remains of Vypeekotta Seminary near the Holy cross church.

The untouched walls of Holy cross church revealing Portuguese architecture.

The stone inscriptions that were found in year 1935 now fixed in the church compound.

The Holy cross church near Kottayil Kovilakom Boat jetty, Chendamangalam

Seemingly renovated walls of Holy cross church but still containing the old architecture.

Kottayil Kovilakom Temple

Some remains of history representing a major port during the Cheran empire 
and later open to the world, its religions and culture, the Sri Krishna Temple in Chendamangalam is a representative of the cultural harmony that existed in Muziris.

 Kottayil Kovilakom Sri Krishna Temple located at a hill top close to the river bank which became a gateway to other cultures and religions.

Muziris and Islamic routes in Kerala

 

Islam said to be the last religion that arrived in India through the gateway of Muziris has an interesting history to unfold.

Chendamangalam Juma-Masjid located close to the modern day Kottayil Kovilakam Boat Jetty on the banks of Periyar river. 

 Chendamangalam Juma Masjid located in an interesting pattern within a stretch of 1 km 
between the Kottayil Kovilakam Sri Krishna Temple,  the remains of Jewish Synagogue and Holy cross church ( Syro Malabar Church ).

 Moving out after 'Juma' at Cheraman Juma Masjid, The Cheraman Masjid is said to be the very first mosque in India, built in 629 AD by Malik lbn Dinar.
Shot at Methala, Kodungallur Taluk.

Friday 'Juma' at Cheraman Juma Masjid during the holy month of Ramadan.

Evidence in a mariner's handbook

Periplus Maris Erythraei - Periplus of the Erythraen Sea of the first century, an unknown Greek merchant-mariner’s handbook on travel and trade in the Indian Ocean describes Muziris as “the first emporium of India”, “not to be sought because of pirates nearby” and where “the shipping station is a long way from the land, and cargoes are brought in and carried out by light boats”.

Vadakumpuram Thoodu, a significant water way connecting the Muziris Pattanam to other villages near Chendamangalam and Gothuruth

As an empty container ship leaves Kochi a view from Aspinwall building. Day to day life in Cochin unchanged but more of the local fishermen folks, rickshaw drivers and shop vendor have started talking about the Art Biennalle as they feel an increased tourist attention near Fort Cochin and Mattanchery areas. 
Shot from Fort Cochin, Kerala on 12-12-12. The legacy of the spice trade related with Muziris and later changed to Kochi lives on with the Biennale.

Jews and Kerala

Some records say the first Jews sailed to South India on the ships of King Solomon; others say they came during the Babylonian exile; others that they fled to Malabar after the destruction of the Second Temple; and others refer to a fourth-century migration from Majorca.

Synagogue at  Chendamangalam










"as long as the world and moon exist"
The Hindu kings of Kerala  gave permission in perpetuity (or, in the more poetic expression of those days, "as long as the world and moon exist") for Jews to live freely, build synagogues, and own property "without conditions attached

A view from women's separated space in a Jewish Synagogue ensuring one shall try to impress no one but only God when they are offering prayers. It is believed that with this gender separation in a Synagogue, the  focus on prayers wont be lost.

The alluring architecture of Synagogue in Chendamangalam.

The doors that were meant for Jewish women's entry and exit which was closed later as the Synagogue in Chendamangalam became non-functional. It remains to be a tourists attraction supported and preserved by the Govt of India.

Traces of Jewish architecture  can be still found near buildings close to the  Jewish Synagogue in the Chendamangalam area of  Parur inKerala.

Remains of old Jewish tombstones found close to Kottayil Kovilakam in Chendamangalam, Kerala.

Covered in thorny bushes and leaf litters, one can hardly make out if there is a tombstone. In picture - one among the hand few visible tombstones in Chendamangalam.




"Perhaps the most unique aspect of the Indian Jewish experience is the complete absence of discrimination by a host majority. The secret of India's tolerance is the Hindu belief which confers legitimacy on a wide diversity of cultural and religious groups even as it forbids movement from one group to another." - Raphael Meyer

 Sarah Cohen's Jewish hand embroidery shop near Synagogue in Jew town, Mattanchery, Kerala.

A young Sarah Cohen ( 2nd from left ) seen playing cards with her Jewish fellow mates in Jew town, Mattanchery, a photo hung in Sarah's embroidery shop.

Jewish Synagogue in Jew town, Mattancherry, Cochin, Kerala.