Synod of Diamper, Udayamperoor

A major share in changing history of Medieval Kerala.

 Convened by Portuguese Governor and Archbishop of Goa Dom Alexis de Menezes during 1599, The Synod of Diamper in Udayamperoor aka Udayamperoor Soonahdos in Ernakulam district of Kerala played a significant role in changing the approach of the Portuguese to the Muziris city and India. Earlier the foreigners focus was solely on spices and fighting obstacles for its trade. Foreign religion started taking interest in Muziris with the Diamper although the validity of the Synod is still questioned by many scholars.

 From the inside of the old church preserved as a Synod Museum today.

 Pieces of granite with ancient inscriptions in 'Vattezhuthu' known as rounded letters which originated from ancient Tamil people in south India and later supplanted by modern Tamil and Malayalam script.

The granite cross aka "Koonan Cross" which means the bent cross stands as a mark of revolt against western imperialism over Christianity. It is believed to be one of the first uprising of this kind by the Malankara christians, who are referred to as St. Thomas christians from Maliankara in Muziris were St. Thomas first arrived.

The river facing view of the old church complex which was the original entrance during the Muziris heritage period before the construction of the existing road.


















How to get there : The easiest route is via Tripunitura in Ernakulam district by taking the Ernakulam - Ettumanoor Highway. As shown in the map below, the church complex is on the right side of the highway soon after the Perumthrikovil Temple.

https://maps.google.co.in/maps?q=synod%20of%20diamper&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=N&tab=wl

Remains of Vypeekotta Seminary

The remains of Vypeekotta seminary are being preserved from the year 1935 since the discovery of many stone inscriptions from a nearby Church compound  It is believed that the seminary to teach  ceremonies to the priests of Malabar was established by Portuguese along with the Holy cross church nearby which was later renovated. The Holy cross church is still functional. Some of these inscriptions which were found is fixed in the church compound.

The remains of Vypeekotta Seminary near the Holy cross church.

The untouched walls of Holy cross church revealing Portuguese architecture.

The stone inscriptions that were found in year 1935 now fixed in the church compound.

The Holy cross church near Kottayil Kovilakom Boat jetty, Chendamangalam

Seemingly renovated walls of Holy cross church but still containing the old architecture.

Kottayil Kovilakom Temple

Some remains of history representing a major port during the Cheran empire 
and later open to the world, its religions and culture, the Sri Krishna Temple in Chendamangalam is a representative of the cultural harmony that existed in Muziris.

 Kottayil Kovilakom Sri Krishna Temple located at a hill top close to the river bank which became a gateway to other cultures and religions.

Muziris and Islamic routes in Kerala

 

Islam said to be the last religion that arrived in India through the gateway of Muziris has an interesting history to unfold.

Chendamangalam Juma-Masjid located close to the modern day Kottayil Kovilakam Boat Jetty on the banks of Periyar river. 

 Chendamangalam Juma Masjid located in an interesting pattern within a stretch of 1 km 
between the Kottayil Kovilakam Sri Krishna Temple,  the remains of Jewish Synagogue and Holy cross church ( Syro Malabar Church ).

 Moving out after 'Juma' at Cheraman Juma Masjid, The Cheraman Masjid is said to be the very first mosque in India, built in 629 AD by Malik lbn Dinar.
Shot at Methala, Kodungallur Taluk.

Friday 'Juma' at Cheraman Juma Masjid during the holy month of Ramadan.

Evidence in a mariner's handbook

Periplus Maris Erythraei - Periplus of the Erythraen Sea of the first century, an unknown Greek merchant-mariner’s handbook on travel and trade in the Indian Ocean describes Muziris as “the first emporium of India”, “not to be sought because of pirates nearby” and where “the shipping station is a long way from the land, and cargoes are brought in and carried out by light boats”.

Vadakumpuram Thoodu, a significant water way connecting the Muziris Pattanam to other villages near Chendamangalam and Gothuruth

As an empty container ship leaves Kochi a view from Aspinwall building. Day to day life in Cochin unchanged but more of the local fishermen folks, rickshaw drivers and shop vendor have started talking about the Art Biennalle as they feel an increased tourist attention near Fort Cochin and Mattanchery areas. 
Shot from Fort Cochin, Kerala on 12-12-12. The legacy of the spice trade related with Muziris and later changed to Kochi lives on with the Biennale.

Jews and Kerala

Some records say the first Jews sailed to South India on the ships of King Solomon; others say they came during the Babylonian exile; others that they fled to Malabar after the destruction of the Second Temple; and others refer to a fourth-century migration from Majorca.

Synagogue at  Chendamangalam










"as long as the world and moon exist"
The Hindu kings of Kerala  gave permission in perpetuity (or, in the more poetic expression of those days, "as long as the world and moon exist") for Jews to live freely, build synagogues, and own property "without conditions attached

A view from women's separated space in a Jewish Synagogue ensuring one shall try to impress no one but only God when they are offering prayers. It is believed that with this gender separation in a Synagogue, the  focus on prayers wont be lost.

The alluring architecture of Synagogue in Chendamangalam.

The doors that were meant for Jewish women's entry and exit which was closed later as the Synagogue in Chendamangalam became non-functional. It remains to be a tourists attraction supported and preserved by the Govt of India.

Traces of Jewish architecture  can be still found near buildings close to the  Jewish Synagogue in the Chendamangalam area of  Parur inKerala.

Remains of old Jewish tombstones found close to Kottayil Kovilakam in Chendamangalam, Kerala.

Covered in thorny bushes and leaf litters, one can hardly make out if there is a tombstone. In picture - one among the hand few visible tombstones in Chendamangalam.




"Perhaps the most unique aspect of the Indian Jewish experience is the complete absence of discrimination by a host majority. The secret of India's tolerance is the Hindu belief which confers legitimacy on a wide diversity of cultural and religious groups even as it forbids movement from one group to another." - Raphael Meyer

 Sarah Cohen's Jewish hand embroidery shop near Synagogue in Jew town, Mattanchery, Kerala.

A young Sarah Cohen ( 2nd from left ) seen playing cards with her Jewish fellow mates in Jew town, Mattanchery, a photo hung in Sarah's embroidery shop.

Jewish Synagogue in Jew town, Mattancherry, Cochin, Kerala.